Summary of Bert, Jiawen, and Alex’s Video on RotorFlight Filter and PID Tuning

By | May 26, 2025
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Introduction

If you’ve ever tried to tune a flybarless system and ended up with a helicopter that wobbles like a drunk squirrel, you’re not alone. Thankfully, the RotorFlight community has some of the sharpest minds in the hobby, and in this video breakdown, Bert Kammerer teams up with control system expert Jiawen Bao and everyday rotor junkie Alex Dean to demystify one of the most misunderstood aspects of RC helicopter setup—PID tuning and filtering.

This blog post summarizes their nearly hour-long deep dive into RotorFlight’s PID and filter tuning process, distilling their insights into a clear, organized reference you can use at the field or on the bench. Whether you’re trying to eliminate a bounce on pitch, smooth out a tail stop, or just understand what the heck “ITERM Relax” even means, this guide captures the collective wisdom shared in that video—no fluff, no guessing.

And remember, as Jiawen wisely reminds us: PID tuning is as much art as it is science. Your servos, blades, head speed, airframe, and even your flying style all play a role. These recommendations aren’t gospel—but they’re the best place to start.

Assumptions

Before we dive into the tuning strategies from Bert, Jiawen, and Alex, let me be upfront about something: this post isn’t meant to be a beginner’s guide to RotorFlight. If you’re still trying to get your first heli in the air or you’re figuring out how to flash your flight controller, you’re probably not quite ready for what’s covered here—yet.

That said, if you’ve already got a heli flying on RotorFlight and you’re chasing that next level of smoothness, precision, or authority, then this is exactly where you want to be. So here are the assumptions I’m making about you, the reader:

  • You’ve already set up RotorFlight — Your gyro is calibrated, the servos are working in the right direction, and you’ve got your model flying under control.
  • You’re familiar with RC heli lingo — I’m not going to explain what a TikTok is, or what roll vs. pitch vs. yaw means. This content assumes you already know your way around a heli.
  • You’ve flown the model you’re tuning — This isn’t a setup guide. It’s for pilots who have flights on the model and want to fine-tune the way it responds.
  • You can find your way around the RotorFlight Configurator — You should know where to locate PID gains, filter settings, and the various tuning tabs. Same goes for the Lua script on your transmitter if you’re diving into response times.
  • You understand that tuning is part science, part art — What works on my heli might not work on yours. These numbers aren’t magic—they’re a baseline. Vibes, servos, head speed, blades, and your own preferences all play a role.
  • You’re ready to test, tweak, and repeat — If you’re not willing to fly, adjust, and fly again, you’re going to struggle getting the best out of this system. That’s just how PID tuning works.

If you’re good with all that, then let’s get into the meat of it. I’ve gone through the whole video and pulled together all the recommended values and explanations into one place, organized by screen. Hopefully, this helps save you some time—and maybe a few headaches.

Glossary of RotorFlight PID and Filter Settings

This glossary covers every value discussed in the video, explained in plain language so you know exactly what it does—and when to adjust it.

PID Gains

  • Proportional Gain (P Gain)
    Controls how aggressively the system reacts to a deviation from your command. Think of it like spring tension.
    Symptoms to tune: If your helicopter feels sluggish, increase P. If it shakes or bounces quickly (especially on TikToks or stops), decrease P.
  • Integral Gain (I Gain)
    Corrects long-term drift and holds orientation over time. It’s responsible for holding heading or attitude under continuous forces like wind.
    Symptoms to tune: If your heli doesn’t hold attitude well in wind or slowly drifts off during sustained maneuvers, increase I. If it starts slowly wobbling during Piro Pogo or punch-outs, your I Gain may be too high.
  • Derivative Gain (D Gain)
    Damps sudden changes in motion. Think of it like shock absorbers on a spring system.
    Symptoms to tune: If the heli overshoots or bounces on stops, increase D. If it feels harsh or jittery, lower D. Too much D can also heat up your servos.

Feedforward & Boost

  • Feedforward (V4 or FF)
    Directly links stick input to servo movement, bypassing the control loop for immediate response.
    Symptoms to tune: If the heli lags behind your stick input or feels soft on stops, increase FF. If it jumps or overshoots your stops too aggressively, decrease it.
  • Boost
    Adds an extra burst of response when you move the stick quickly. Think of it like a punch of throttle for stick motion.
    Symptoms to tune: If the heli feels lazy or slow to initiate a maneuver (especially on pitch), increase Boost. If it feels twitchy or unstable at the start of stick movement, reduce Boost.

Filters

  • First Order Low Pass Filter
    Filters out high-frequency gyro noise. A higher Hz value allows more responsiveness, but less noise filtering.
    Symptoms to tune: If your model is too soft or slow to react, increase the Hz value. If you’re seeing unexplained vibrations or servo heat, decrease it.
  • Notch Filters (Main and Tail, including Harmonics)
    Target and remove specific vibration frequencies tied to rotor RPM.
    Symptoms to tune: If you’re seeing tail wag, cyclic jitter, or odd vibrations in flight logs, notch filters may help. Typically left at recommended values unless you have specific vibration issues.

ITERM Settings

  • Integral Term Relax (ITERM Relax)
    Temporarily reduces the effect of I Gain during fast stick inputs or stops to prevent wobbles.
    Symptoms to tune: If the heli wobbles or floats after a hard stop, increase ITERM Relax. If it feels loose or drifts slightly after hard stops, decrease it.

HSI Gain

  • High Speed Interaction (HSI) Offset Gain
    Compensates for pitch/collective interaction in high-speed flight (funnels, hurricanes, punch-outs).
    Symptoms to tune: If your heli noses up or down when you hit collective during fast flight, increase HSI Offset Gain. Too high and you may introduce slow wobbles in transitions.

Error Decay Settings

  • Error Decay Time
    Controls how fast the system forgets about past errors.
    Symptoms to tune: If hover feels loose or floaty, decrease this value. If TikToks or transitions feel too stiff or snappy, increase it slightly.
  • Error Decay Max
    Advanced setting for error limiting. Leave at default unless experimenting. Most users won’t need to adjust this.

Stop Gain Settings

  • Stop Gain Clock-Wise (CW) / Counter-Clockwise (CCW)
    Multiplier for tail P Gain when stopping rotation in each direction.
    Symptoms to tune: If one direction of tail stop is softer or bounces more than the other, adjust these values to balance them.

Precompensation Settings

  • Cyclic Feedforward Gain (Tail)
    Feeds tail input based on cyclic deflection to counteract undesired yaw effects.
    Symptoms to tune: If tail kicks slightly when you give cyclic, raise this value.
  • Collective Precompensation (Tail)
    Adds tail correction based on collective pitch input to maintain heading.
    Symptoms to tune: If the tail swings when you punch or reduce collective, increase this value.

Response Time (Lua Script Only)

  • Response Time
    Applies a low-pass filter to your stick input. Slows down your control inputs to make flight feel smoother.
    Symptoms to tune: If Piro Flips feel twitchy or hard to control, increase this (e.g., to 7–12ms). If the heli feels too disconnected from your stick, decrease it.
  • Max Acceleration
    Currently not functional in RotorFlight. Safe to ignore for now.

Rates and Expo

  • Max Rate
    Sets the maximum rotational speed in degrees per second (°/s).
    Symptoms to tune: Lower for beginners (~180–200°/s), higher for aggressive 3D (~300+°/s).
  • Center Sensitivity
    Determines how sensitive the heli is around stick center. Works like traditional expo.
    Symptoms to tune: Increase if the heli feels too numb in the center; decrease if too twitchy.
  • Expo
    Shapes the curve between stick center and endpoints. In RotorFlight, this affects how far center sensitivity stretches.
    Symptoms to tune: Most pilots leave this at zero. Only adjust if you’re trying to blend a specific rate feel.

Torque Assist

  • Torque Assist
    Increases main rotor RPM slightly during tail maneuvers on motor-driven tail helis (not servo tails).
    Symptoms to tune: Only relevant for helis with motorized tail rotors. Leave off for standard tail servos.

RotorFlight PID & Filter Recommended Settings

This guide outlines the recommended initial values, explanations, and tuning methods for RotorFlight settings as discussed by Jiawen Bao, Bert Kammerer, and Alex Dean. These are organized by screen and setting name.

1. Gyro (Filters) Screen

Effect:
This screen defines how RotorFlight handles vibration and noise from your gyro sensors. It’s your first line of defense against unwanted oscillations and servo heat caused by too much electrical or mechanical noise.

What You’ll Find:

  • First Order Low Pass Filter (Hz)

  • Main and Tail Notch Filters

  • Harmonic filters (2nd and 3rd harmonics)

  • Minimum Filtered RPM settings for main and tail

Why You’d Tune Here:

  • To make the helicopter more responsive (by reducing filtering)

  • To remove jitters or oscillations caused by specific vibrations

  • To match the filtering to the type of helicopter (lightweight vs. big and heavy, electric vs. nitro)

Setting Initial Value Explanation Tuning Tips
First Order LPF (Main Rotor) 150 Hz Faster response than default (100Hz) Lower if noisy; raise cautiously for snappier feel
Main Rotor Notch Filter Single, 10 Filters primary RPM harmonic Default is good; adjust if vibration detected
Second Harmonic Single, 3.5 Filters 2x RPM harmonic Leave unless specific need
Third Harmonic Single, 5 Filters 3x RPM harmonic Same as above
Main Rotor Min Filtered RPM Just under your min RPM (e.g., 800 for 1800 RPM) Filter activation threshold Set slightly below your lowest bank
Tail Rotor Notch Filters Single, 5 Filters tail harmonics Match tail RPM characteristics

2. PID Tuning Screen

Effect:
This is where you control how the helicopter reacts to movement and corrects itself—how fast it responds, how well it holds its attitude, and how smooth or sharp the reactions feel.

What You’ll Find:

  • P, I, and D gains for Roll, Pitch, and Yaw

  • Feedforward and Boost settings per axis

Why You’d Tune Here:

  • To make the helicopter feel more locked in or more fluid

  • To eliminate bounce or oscillation on stops

  • To make the heli match your stick movements more directly or soften transitions

  • To handle different airframes, servo speeds, blade types, or flying styles

Roll Axis

Setting Initial Value Explanation Tuning
P Gain 35–70 Responsiveness Start ~50; lower if shaky, raise if sluggish
D Gain 0–15 Damping Raise for bounce, lower for oscillation
I Gain 100–120 Attitude correction Avoid too low; maintains stability
Feedforward Match pitch (~130) Stick input to servo Match pitch axis for consistency
Boost ~60 Initial movement kick Raise if response feels soft

Pitch Axis

Setting Initial Value Explanation Tuning
P Gain 90–150 Handles mass/inertia Start ~110; lower if bounce
D Gain 45–60 Stops smoothness Critical for pitch; adjust as needed
I Gain 85–100 Wind resistance and position hold Test with Piro Pogo for fine-tuning
Feedforward ~130 Direct stick response Raise until stops feel crisp
Boost ~60+ Helps movement start Raise if pitch lags

Yaw (Tail)

Setting Initial Value Explanation Tuning
P Gain 120 Stop sharpness Lower if fast wag
D Gain 20 Extra damping Only raise for slow servos
I Gain 180–450 Heading hold Raise to improve hold during maneuvers
Feedforward 0–8 Stick to tail servo Optional; minimal effect
Stop Gain CW/CCW 180 / 165 Balance stop strength Adjust ratio based on stop feel

3. Advanced PID Options

Effect:
These parameters refine how the control loop behaves under specific conditions, like stopping quickly from fast maneuvers or high-speed forward flight. They help reduce overcorrections or subtle unwanted behaviors.

What You’ll Find:

  • ITERM Relax Mode and Gain

  • HSI Offset Gain

  • Ground/Air Transition options

  • PID Controller Type

Why You’d Tune Here:

  • To eliminate post-stop wobbles

  • To fix elevator bob during fast forward flight or hurricanes

  • To increase or decrease stability during specific transitions

  • To stabilize the model during takeoff or landing

Setting Initial Value Explanation Tuning Tips
ITERM Relax RPY, 12–15 Prevents overshoot on stops Raise for crisper stops, lower if loose
HSI Offset Gain 60 Compensates collective-pitch mix Raise to eliminate bobble in forward flight

4. Main Rotor Settings

Effect:
These settings impact how the flight controller interprets and decays error over time, which influences how the helicopter holds position and reacts to correction during maneuvers like TikToks.

What You’ll Find:

  • Error Decay Time

  • Error Decay Max

Why You’d Tune Here:

  • To improve hover stability or crispness

  • To reduce wobble during cyclic-heavy maneuvers

  • To find the balance between locked-in feel and fluid transitions

Setting Initial Value Explanation Tuning Tips
Error Decay Time 15–20 Controls how fast the loop settles Lower for tighter hover, higher for smoother feel
Error Decay Max Default Unused by most pilots Leave alone

5. Tail Rotor Settings

Effect:
Controls how the tail reacts to stick input, collective input, and cyclic input—helps eliminate tail wag, uneven stops, or tail kicks.

What You’ll Find:

  • Tail P, I, and D gains

  • Stop Gains (Clockwise / Counter-Clockwise)

  • Cyclic Precomp

  • Collective Precomp

  • Feedforward for Tail

  • Torque Assist

Why You’d Tune Here:

  • To balance tail stops in both directions

  • To remove slow or fast wag during maneuvers

  • To adjust tail behavior under heavy cyclic or collective input

  • To improve tail authority during pitch pumps, hurricanes, or piro maneuvers

Setting Initial Value Explanation Tuning Tips
Stop Gain CW/CCW 180 / 165 Directional multiplier of tail P gain Adjust to balance tail stop feel
Cyclic Feedforward Default Compensates tail for cyclic Leave default unless tail moves with cyclic input
Collective Precomp Default Tail comp for collective Raise if tail kicks on collective punch
Torque Assist Off For motor-driven tail helis only Leave off for servo tails

6. PID Controller Bandwidth

Effect:
Defines the cutoff frequency for the PID loop’s response—controls how fast the PID gains are allowed to work. Think of it as the responsiveness of the control loop as a whole.

What You’ll Find:

  • Bandwidth settings for Roll, Pitch, and Yaw (in Hz)

Why You’d Tune Here:

  • To make the helicopter feel more responsive or more filtered

  • To address subtle tail or cyclic noise issues

  • To adjust for electric vs. nitro vibrations

Setting Initial Value Explanation Tuning Tips
Roll/Pitch/Yaw Bandwidth ~35 Hz PID loop frequency Lower = more filtered, higher = faster but riskier

7. Rate Settings (Actual Mode)

Effect:
Dictates how fast the helicopter rotates based on your stick input and how sensitive the model feels around the center of the stick.

What You’ll Find:

  • Max Rate (degrees per second)

  • Center Sensitivity

  • Expo

  • Rate Profile

Why You’d Tune Here:

  • To make the heli rotate faster or slower

  • To adjust how sensitive the model feels around center stick (useful for beginners or 3D pilots)

  • To match the response feel across models or personal preference

Setting Initial Value Explanation Tuning Tips
Max Rate (Roll/Pitch) 290 deg/sec Max rotational speed 180 for beginners; up to 290+ for advanced
Center Sensitivity 190 Stick response near center Increase for snappier control
Expo 0 Non-traditional; alters curve spread Keep at 0; adjust center sensitivity instead

8. Response Time (Lua Menu Only)

Effect:
Adds a small, configurable delay (in milliseconds) to your stick inputs before they reach the flight controller. This smooths out sharp or jagged responses, especially during continuous stick stirring like in piro flips.

What You’ll Find:

  • Roll, Pitch, Yaw, and Collective Response Time (ms)

  • Max Acceleration (currently unused)

Why You’d Tune Here:

  • To reduce twitchiness or “digital” feel in advanced maneuvers

  • To give yourself more precision if your fingers aren’t rock steady

  • To reduce unintended bounce or wobble during piro maneuvers or transitions

Setting Initial Value Explanation Tuning Tips
Roll/Pitch Response Time 4–7 ms Filters pilot input to smooth maneuvering Raise to ~10–12ms for smoother piro flips
Yaw Response Time 0 ms Direct stick-to-tail response Leave at 0 for sharp tail feel
Max Acceleration Unused Not implemented yet Ignore

Note: These are base values to get your model flying smoothly. Fine tuning should always be done by testing specific maneuvers like TikToks, Piro Pogo, fast forward flight, and watching for bounce, wag, or wobble.

In-Flight Parameter Testing Guide

Use the table below to test and fine-tune each RotorFlight parameter in the air. Focus on one axis or parameter at a time, and make small adjustments between flights. Always start from a mechanically sound setup.

Parameter Test Maneuver What to Look For Adjustment Tips
P Gain (Pitch) Elevator TikToks Sharp bounce on stop or fast shake Lower if bouncing; raise if response feels soft or slow to return
P Gain (Roll) Aileron TikToks Similar to pitch—look for quick oscillation or mushy response Same logic as pitch; more forgiving on roll axis
I Gain (Pitch/Roll) Piro Pogo or slow tic-tocs Slow wobble or nose dipping after hard stops Lower if wobble appears; raise if the heli won’t hold attitude
D Gain (Pitch) Quick stops from fast flips Over-correction or bounce after stops Increase if stops overshoot; decrease if fast shaking appears
D Gain (Roll) Fast rolls and stops Less sensitive than pitch; still watch for bounce Usually minimal; use similar process as pitch
Feedforward (FF) Elevator/aileron flips, stop stick sharply Heli overshoots or doesn’t stop crisply Raise until it feels like it stops *exactly* where your stick does
Boost Quick stabs of pitch or roll Response feels slow to get going Increase to sharpen initial response; decrease if it feels twitchy
I Gain (Yaw) Fast tail-first flight, hard pirouettes Tail slowly drifts or whips under load Raise for better heading hold; lower if slow wag develops
P Gain (Yaw) Stationary hard stops (CW/CCW) Fast tail wag or mushy stops Lower for fast wag; raise for weak stops
Stop Gain CW/CCW Rudder stop testing in both directions One direction stops better than the other Adjust ratio to balance the stop feel
HSI Offset Gain High-speed passes, hurricanes Elevator bob or pitch bounce when adding collective Raise to reduce pitch interactions during speed
ITERM Relax Hard stops from flips or TikToks Slow wobble after stopping stick Increase if wobble appears; decrease if heli feels floaty
Error Decay Time Hover and quick transitions Feels floaty in hover or too stiff in transitions Lower for a locked-in hover; raise if heli feels snappy or abrupt
Response Time (Lua) Piro Flips, continuous maneuvers Disc appears jumpy or jagged while stirring sticks Raise to smooth inputs; lower if control feels disconnected

Tip: Don’t tune based on one flight. Look for consistent behavior, and only change one thing at a time. Logging your changes and results will help you find your sweet spot faster.

How to Log or Record Changes

If you’re serious about dialing in your helicopter, logging your changes is not optional—it’s essential. Tuning without notes is like trying to solve a maze blindfolded. You’ll end up flying in circles, wondering why the heli feels worse than it did two flights ago.

Here’s a simple method I use to stay on top of PID tuning:

Flight Log Template

  • Flight Number: #001, #002, etc.
  • Date & Conditions: Windy, calm, hot, overcast—weather matters.
  • Bank Used: If you’re testing with specific flight modes/banks, note it.
  • Settings Changed: “Raised Pitch D Gain from 45 to 55” or “Lowered FF from 130 to 120”
  • What I Observed: “Stops were cleaner,” “Developed slight tail wag,” or “No change noticed”
  • Next Adjustment (if any): “Try lowering P next flight,” “Leave settings as-is,” etc.

Pro Tip: Keep a notes app, spreadsheet, or even a small notepad in your field box. Don’t rely on memory—your future self will thank you.

And remember: always change one thing at a time. If you adjust pitch P, D, and I all in one go, and it feels worse afterward, you won’t know which change was the culprit. Keep it methodical.

Pre-Flight Checklist for PID Tuning

Before you even think about touching your PID settings, make sure your helicopter is mechanically sound. You can’t tune your way out of mechanical slop, vibrations, or poor balance—PID tuning assumes the platform is stable to begin with.

✔ Mechanical Integrity

  • Linkages: No slop, free movement, and equal throw left/right or up/down.
  • Servo Horns: Mounted solidly with good geometry. No stripped splines or loose screws.
  • Ball Bearings: Smooth and quiet with no notchiness or play.
  • Frame: Tight bolts, nothing cracked or flexing under load.

✔ Drivetrain Health

  • Belts & Gears: Proper tension and mesh. No skipped teeth, uneven wear, or backlash.
  • Main Shaft & Spindle: Not bent. A wobbly head will completely throw off tuning.
  • Tail Shaft: Spins freely, not bent, and no binding with the boom clamps or supports.

✔ Vibration Management

  • Blades: Properly balanced and tight. Mismatched or warped blades = vibration magnet.
  • Motor: Securely mounted. No rubbing or odd noises at spool-up.
  • Gyro Mount: Clean, dry, and firmly stuck. Use quality gyro tape, and only one layer unless recommended.

✔ Software Setup

  • Gyro Calibration: Completed and saved in RotorFlight.
  • Servo Direction: Moving in the correct direction and centered properly.
  • Throttle Output: Set correctly for governor or flat curve (depending on your setup).
  • Blade Direction: (Yes, it’s happened before.) Make sure you didn’t reverse your main or tail rotation.

Bottom line: Tuning is for refinement—not for compensating for mechanical issues. If something feels wrong mechanically, fix it first. Then come back to PID tuning with confidence.

About RotorFlight Defaults

RotorFlight’s default PID and filter settings are solid—no question. But they’re designed to be safe and general-purpose, not optimal for your specific helicopter, setup, or flying style. If your heli flies “fine” on defaults but you’re chasing something smoother, sharper, or more predictable, you’re going to need to tune beyond them.

Here’s what you should know about the defaults:

  • They favor safety over performance — Think of them as a “minimum viable setup.” Good enough to get in the air, but not tailored to get the most out of your model.
  • They assume a mid-size electric model — T-Rex 500–700 class, decent servos, mid-RPM blades. If you’re flying a micro, a nitro, or something with a weird power-to-weight ratio, you’ll probably need to adjust.
  • They filter more than they need to — Filtering is conservative by default to prevent issues from poor mechanics or vibes, but that can soften your control feel.
  • They use safe but generic rates — Most people want sharper flips, quicker rolls, or smoother center feel. You’ll need to personalize your rates.

Bottom line: The defaults are a great starting point—but if you stop there, you’re missing out. The real magic of RotorFlight is what happens when you tune it to your style. And that’s what this guide is here to help you do.

The Tuning Mindset

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from years of tuning flybarless systems, it’s this: chasing “perfect” will drive you insane. RotorFlight gives you incredible control over your helicopter’s behavior—but with great power comes the temptation to constantly tweak. Resist that urge.

Here’s the mindset I recommend:

  • Tune for predictability, not perfection — The goal isn’t to make the helicopter do everything perfectly. The goal is to make it fly consistently, so you can learn how it behaves and fly it better.
  • Don’t tune to someone else’s feel — Jiawen’s setup might feel great to him and terrible to you. Your thumbs, your timing, your reflexes—they’re all unique. Tune for what feels right to you.
  • Small changes, one at a time — If you change five things and it feels better or worse, you won’t know why. Discipline yourself to change one setting, fly it, observe, then adjust.
  • Good enough is usually better than perfect — If the heli is stable, responsive, and does what you expect, leave it. Go fly. The last 5% improvement often takes 500% more effort and creates more frustration than it’s worth.
  • Your flying matters more than your settings — A pilot with average tuning and solid stick skills will always look better than someone with perfect tuning and sloppy inputs.

My rule of thumb: If the heli flies the same way twice in a row and doesn’t surprise you, you’re on the right track. If it flies better than you do—you’re done. Go enjoy it.

Warnings and Safe Practices

PID tuning can transform your heli from “meh” to “magic”—but only if you approach it wisely. These are the guardrails I recommend to keep your tuning safe, sane, and productive.

🛑 Safety First

  • Never tune with a questionable setup — Bent shafts, loose blades, worn bearings, or bad vibes? Fix those first. No PID setting can compensate for broken hardware.
  • Always test changes in a safe area — Open space, low altitude at first, and stay away from people. The heli might surprise you after a change.
  • Land immediately if something feels off — Trust your instincts. If it suddenly feels twitchy, floaty, or unstable—don’t keep flying “just to see what happens.”

⚙ Tuning Discipline

  • Change one thing at a time — It’s the golden rule. If you tweak multiple values at once, you won’t know which one made the difference—good or bad.
  • Make small changes — 5–10 point adjustments are usually enough. Overshooting values causes more harm than tuning slowly.
  • Use banks for comparison — Set up multiple flight banks with different tuning values so you can A/B test in the air without landing.
  • Have a way to revert — Keep a log (see above) or take screenshots of your starting values. You’ll thank yourself when you need to roll back.

🚫 What Not to Do

  • Don’t chase perfection — There’s always “just one more tweak” to make it better. At some point, you’re just rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic. Fly it.
  • Don’t tune around bad habits — If your inputs are jerky or inconsistent, tuning won’t fix that. Practice smoother flying and tune afterward.
  • Don’t blindly copy someone else’s numbers — Their heli, blades, servos, and style are probably different. Use their numbers as a starting point, not gospel.

Bottom line: Tuning should make the heli better, not more dangerous. Take it slow, be deliberate, and don’t forget that most crashes happen within a few seconds of something “feeling a little weird.” Respect the process—and the machine.

Reference Links & Resources

Whether you’re just getting started or want to go deeper into RotorFlight tuning, here are some valuable links mentioned (or implied) throughout this guide.

Pro Tip: Bookmark these. You’ll be back.

Closing Thoughts

RotorFlight isn’t just another firmware—it represents a shift in our hobby toward something better. Something open.

Commercial, closed systems have their place, but they simply can’t keep up with the pace of innovation and feedback coming from the community. Development cycles are slow, priorities are driven by profit margins, and user feedback often gets lost in the noise.

In contrast, open source platforms like RotorFlight are thriving precisely because they’re built with and for the pilots. You’re not just a consumer—you’re part of the feedback loop. Bugs get fixed faster. Features get added that actually matter. Tuning philosophies evolve because real people—like Jiawen, Bert, and Alex—are flying, learning, and sharing what works.

And the result? A more enjoyable hobby. Lower cost of entry. Better performance. More innovation. Stronger community support. And a system that doesn’t tie your hands to a particular brand of hardware or business model.

The future of RC helicopters is open. And with tools like RotorFlight, that future is already here.

So keep tuning, keep flying, and keep contributing. The best is yet to come.